EMPIRE STATE OF MIND

Today is the first time that I feel homesick...the Yanks made the playoffs and pretty much no one here gives a shit. Its also raining...yes in the desert. That is all.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIv3lEYGCH4&feature=related

Musical Offerings

So people have been asking me about the music over here. I'll break you guys off with some more traditional middle eastern popular tunes but first, the CLUB BANGERS. Cairo is big on house/dance music in the clubs, and its starting to grow on me...guess I got some tunes to donate to the next Psi U dance partay. I havent quite figured out if these songs are old or new but I hadn't heard any of them before getting here and they have definitely become my jammy jams...espcially the David Guetta ft. Akon one.

check these songs out and here are a few download links.

David Guetta ft. Akon- Sexy Bitch

Edward Maya ft. Alicia- Stereo Love

Yves Larock's Rise Up is also really great...couldn't find a link for that though.

Happy Listening!

Snapshots

most beautiful soul

meal of champions

on my National Geographic tip

artsyish

Up In Smoke

(Not from Cairo, but he's smoking...pun intended)

Sometimes I feel like Cairo is one giant smoking advertisement, with Marlboro Light as the brand. At the risk of sounding like a complete cornball I simply must say...smoking has never looked so cool. I don't really know how to describe it or even exactly what IT is but Cairo makes you just wanna roll out and ashtray and get to puffing. EVERYONE SMOKES. I mean this is the kind of stuff the surgeon general warns us about on the side of the cigarette box but damn, all the cool kids are doing it. Hell, even the not-so-cool kids are doing it, and by kids I do mean kids, and adults, and senior citizens. The Bedouins are smoking, the Muslims are smoking, the Coptics are smoking. Where are they smoking? Everywhere. In the bathroom, at the cafe, at the stadium, on the bus, in the cab, on the street, in the restaurant, outside al mosque, in khan el khalili, on the grass, at the library, in the classroom. Why are they doing it? Who knows but I've just noticed how prevalent smoking cigarettes is here. Some of the first words I learned in my colloquial arabic class were lighter and ashtray...smoking is so prevalent that they DONT EVEN NEED cigarette ads. Its crazy. I'm just so intrigued by everyone walking around puffing on a cig and they all seem to be at ease amongst all the bustle. Just an observation.

Im dizzy drunk from this bilingual existence. My very body split through and through by a technicolor city,the mural of the naked woman on the cuadra not to far from my house, and the words pase lo que pase on the wall in the bookstore where i pretend to study.This country which has given me much and to whom i can thank for making me a skeptical dreamer.

1.Ben wants us to write poems together over these millions of miles and i hope his words can reach across the world and shake me like they sometimes do when we are sitting so close to each other the hairs on our arms can touch.

2.hope they can teach me what it means to be more than a quiet train passing through some unfamilar landscape. remind me where i last left my soul. Did i forget it there at the alter to el diablo? mistaking that pile of stones and discarded cigerettes for a tribute to the pachamama. who apparently enjoys to smoke from time to time.

Teach me again what it means to be a poet.
To think and breathe then write something so painful or beautiful that is cannot be written.
to try and capture this hard, rare thing called life.

Dear Pachamama, Thanks for Touching my Soul

I have been back in Buenos Aires for one week now and I haave to write about my trip to Jujuy before I forget how it felt to be in a place with such a palpable spirit. I feel like the problem with having so many amazing experiences in such a short amount of time is that each one begins to run into the next and I just want to give the Pachamama(mother earth) the reflection she deserves. So we travelled as a group to the Northern part of Argentina, 2 hours by plane, 1.5 hours by bus and we arrived in this dusty little pueblocito with houses made of clay and unpaved streets. I havvve to describe the people of this place, they are so tranqila and tiny, like from another time. Their faces are etched with lines...I kept wanting to say that they looked windswept, because they look as though literally the wind and sun have carved lines in their cheeks and foreheads. Ahhh...me mata! I felt like I could live in those mountains making jewlery and...doing whatever it is that they do. But perhaps that was the high altitude making me dizzy and making it hard for me to maintain some sense bc many of the first peoples of that region are so very poor! Thats the thing that struck me so powerfully is the differenc between Buenos Aires, a city with all the modern convienience, attitude and grit of New York City, and Humahuca, a town that is filled with a quiet, ancient type of energy....(I hate to write this way, but honestly I was so moved by this place I felt like every moment I was having revelations about my life and the excesses of cities like BA. The Pachamama really did touch my soul!

Shit Happens

I just got back to Cairo from my week of roadtripping through eastern Egypt and Jordan. I have SO MUCH to write and share and great pics as well. Unfortunately my comp is more triflin than a pimp on sunday morning and has decided to act crazy....so I dont know when ill be able to really get down to posting all the stuff that I had originally intended to, but it will happen eventually.

Side note and comment about B.Amorena's last post. The world is going crazy and fucking up on a daily basis, its actually pretty depressing and eye opening at the same time. Every day something ridiculous happens that can make you really question what goes through ppls heads, especially those who are in power. Just have to inhale and exhale.

The Nature of Protest

Yesterday I went to a demonstration in support of the depenalization of abortion in Argentina. Sadly, the group of 20 to 30 abortion advocates were oversahdowed by a massive demonstration involving hundreds of people marching from Congresso to Plaza de Mayo. I couldnt really understand what the demonstration was about but I believe it has to do with Kraft foods and the firing of a huge number of employees and something about H1N1 as well...obviously had some trouble understanding the pamphlets, but I was incredibly struck by the culture of organizing and protesting here in Argentina. And I am having a moment right now where the world just kind of looks really ugly. With everything that is going on in the U.S to stop the (modest) healthcare plan from being passed and WHAT the pro-democracy demonstration in Guinea in which 100+ people were killed as police open fired on the crowd.
There are some days when I just cant handle how fucked up the world is. I had kind of shut myself off from current events. Being here makes it a lot easier to forget that the rest of the world still exists. This is kind of a rant, but what I really want to do is just put all of these events in perspective,trying to understand how all over the world people are fighting to be heard, fighting for the right to just live. Its like im seeing too much this week how fragile democracy really is. Its really only this tiny thread of a thing and if you stop fighting for it for even one second someone will try to make you forget that its the only thing we have to keep us from dying, slow painful deaths bc we cant afford to see a doctor, or quick surprising deaths to silence.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/30/world/africa/30guinea.html?hp

roaming...

So because I have time off from classes - decided to take a
backpacking roadtrip of sorts around the Red Sea area of Egypt and
into Jordan. I'll be trying to post when I get wifi access because I
think it might be cool to give y'all a heads up on my moves and the
experiences in each place. I'll be writing from my BB so its gonna be
short and sweet.

Day 1...I left cairo around 7 am this morning and arrived by bus to
Dahab around 4. Needless to say it was a long ass bus ride...but way
worth the 9 hrs of driving through the desert, 5 passport checkpoint
stops and blasting AC that probably froze my nips off. Dahab is
something that cannot be described accurately with my words. All I
know is since I've been here I have become totally serene by the waves
of the Red Sea which lies just feet away from the hostel. I could
escape and live her forever, and time sees to move much slower than in
cairo. Its made for just sitting with a cold stella by water and
looking out and just thinking. Amazing. Tomorrow I head to the Isreali
border...I know that will be an experience and a half.

You're Right This Place is Magical

This weekend I visited one of Pablo Neruda's homes in Valparaiso, Chile. This is the exact spot where he sat and wrote the words that have repeatedly brought me to tears.(these aren't the words, but this poem is one of the most sensual poems I have ever read I had to share an excerpt: Kinda makes my toes tingle...too much, yeah I know.

He ido marcando con cruces de fuego
El atlas blanco de tu cuerpo
Mi boca era una arana que cruzaba escondiendose
En ti, detras de ti, temerosa, sedienta
-Neruda

The sunrise is

the greatest simplistic beauty that we are given routinely. The first hint of orange sneaking through the navy sky is something that cannot be described in words.

Catch a sunrise and see for yourself.

Just For Kicks



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNm2Ec2T-js&feature=channel




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqJd3d3RHFE&feature=channel

Do You See What I See...?

CUTIE PIESSSSSS!!!
weaving at Ntonso

queen mother
elmina castle independence square

view from hostel jamestown beach

Schools Out!!

Okay so in case I haven't done a great job of conveying the "Egyptian way" is kind of like whatever makes sense at the moment is what is done. The thought process that proceeds actions was at first kind of strange and confusing to me. But now I'm kind of getting used to the fact that things do not form a regular pattern. A meal that I ordered yesterday and took 5 mins to cook, could take an hour to cook this week. A bus driver who is supposed to ask me for a ticket to ride the bus MAY or MAY NOT ask for the ticket. The guard at the pyramid who is supposed to confiscate cameras from visitors who are entering the pyramid will just let you me in with a wink and a smile. And so keeping up in trend with that Egyptian way...yesterday I was informed in my class that starting today we would all be on break for Ramadan until OCT 3rd...or 4th. The reason being that the government officials are afraid that people who are going to Hajj(Pilgrimage to Mecca, the holy land for Muslims) may return to Egypt with symptoms of H1N1. So they want those ppl to be in their homes away from public for at least 7 - 10 days before they reemerge. So no classes for me, a two week vacay of sorts. GOD I LOVE THIS PLACE.

A Tale of Two Cities

This past weekend I visited Alexandria, the also famous, much cleaner, less crowded, Mediterranean sister of Cairo. History buffs will tell you all about the significance of Alex as the place of the great library and the lighthouse (which burned down a whiiiiiile ago) as well as its evident Roman and Greek influence. There are also the its ties to the love story of Cleopatra and Mark Anthony as well as their reign of power. All these things aside, the one thing that I got from Alex is that while its really interesting and on the beautiful Meditteranean, Cairo is definitely where its at. I'm not one for regional beef (Biggie over Pac ANYDAY lol) but Alex just wasn't cutting it for me. I think that its the type of place you go to when you want to be close to the sea or if you don't like crowds. But if you even spend two hours in Cairo and then go to Alexandria I'm pretty sure you would find it less than amusing as well. Now it is not my itention to offend any Alexandrians this is just my experience and the opinions...in list form.
CONS
- Why did I go to like four different Cafe's and was refused to see a menu at ALL of them. One clever man quickly responded "I AM the menu"...umm yeah no thanks.
- The waiters serving my shisha were not nearly as helpful as the ones I've come used to in Cairo
- Not as crowded, more conservative = not as fun!
- The amount of tourists is more noticeable.
- Please take better care of your beaches... its the Mediterranean dammit.
- Slower pace lifestyle
PROS
- BOMB ASS seafood
- The Citadel is a beautiful spot to visit
- Not as hot or polluted as Cairo
- Roman architectural sites...if that floats your boat.

All in all it was still a fun weekend in Alexandria, and at least the hotel will serve you booze even during Ramadan :)

Ilhamdullilah

So this may sound kind of cheesy and may be somwhat reminiscent of that disney movie "The Color of Friendship" but I had to donate some time to explain the amazing new friend I have found here in Cairo. Well actually I didnt find him, but its no big deal. We all know how WES is everywhere, and usually this can be so damn annoying. But there is that 1% of the time when wes connections turn out to be great and then you find yourself thanking wes for being so small. Shout out to Karimah '09 for introducing me to her friend Mohamed.
I have always known that one of the points of studying abroad is to exchange culture and ideas with local people and learn more. But I think we find it more often than not, that students studying abroad stick together in an All American group and never really branch out. I have done some of this with the friends that I have made here, which is great, but I truly am blessed to have met Mohamed. I find myself talking to Mohamed about anything...anything at all, and our deep conversations topics ranging from religion to love to Common sometimes have even distracted me from practicing my arabaic (the original purpose of our meeting). His mind is brilliant and yet comforting. Sometimes I find myself forgetting that we are sitting by Khan el Khalili and I am in the middle of Cairo because it feels like I have already known him for so long. It is also interesting to learn about issues from his male and muslim point of view. Despite being enrolled in 5 courses, all reading intensive, I know already that my greatest lessons will be what I learn from hanging out with Mohamed. I know that this will be a friendship that will continue long after I leave Cairo (a date marked as D -DAY on my calendar) and for that I truly am blessed.
I think my man Humphrey Bogart said it best in the last line of Casablanca...

"...I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship"

ilhamdulillah(thanks to god)

There Must be a Different Word for Chivalry in Argentina

In response to the my dearest friend's post from the motherland, I must respond with my own observations about the ways men treat women in Buenos Aires...Where to even begin? Men in Argentina have been raised from the teet on the notion of machismo. And I must say I don't hate all things about machismo...the feminist in me just slapped me up-side my head, but let me explain. I have seen young boys stand get up from their seat on the bus for a lady. I have seen men helping old ladies across the street too many times to count. When I'm standing in line to get on the colectivo, if there is a man in front of me he will let me get on first. Also I have flirted(all the pun intended) with the dating culture here in Buenos Aires, and always always the chicos open my doors, pull out my chairs..the whole thing. At first I didnt know how to respond to all this chivalry, these caballeros took me by surprise...but wait, I soon learned there is another side to all this mannerly behavior. Los chicos love to darles piropos a cualquier mujer. Basically, with all of this chivilrous behavior comes a price. The men don't take rejection, not that they dont take rejection easily or they don't like rejection, nope the notion of rejection simply doesn't exist for these men. It is as if they just know that if they keep trying they will get what they want. I don't know if its all the machismo ideology they were brought up on or what, but the men here seem to think they can approach/conquer any woman they desire, regardless of how uncomfortable their advances may make you feel. Today for instance. I was taking a little walk for exercise(thats what I tell mi madre, but really I just go for ice cream and then bum around the shops for a couple hours.) Anyways I was strolling through my hood when these two guys ride past on the street on motorcycle...first, I dont fucks with the motocicleta, that's school for theives 101, how to mug via motorcycle, so I was freaked out at first, but then I realized that they were simlply blowing me kisses, not weilding armas. Anyways, I ignored it per usual, but the next block I see the same guy, he has dropped his friend off and is waiting for me at the block. He begins with the usual, "you are so beautiful..blah blah blah" and I continue as usual, but this one is particularly sure that he will get what he wants. He proceeds to follow me for about 6 blocks, manuevering in traffic as I dodge from street to street trying to lose him at the street lights. Each time he catches up with me and begins again with observations of my bueaty, offering me a ride, offers to take me out. It was day time in a very safe neighborhood otherwise I would def have used my pepper spray to convey my message more forcefully, but luckily I passed the casa of one of my amigos and I was saved, but this is just one example of machismo gone wrong.

chivalry is NOT dead

So I'm officially convinced that it's sooo much easier to be womanist (feminist) or at least "womanist (feminist)-minded" at home because too many of the black men (NOT ALL...just a lot) are trifling and/or disrespectful. Don't get me wrong--I'm all for self-sufficiency, equality, and respect for women, but it feels less like a struggle when I don't feel that tension that seems to separate black men and black women back at home. I have never met a more respectful, courteous, and friendly population of black men in my entire life than I have here in Ghana! I'm sure it's tied into Ghana's patriarchal culture which someone with a Western perspective might deem "problematic" (kinda hate that word Wes), but for the time being it feels right!

In other news...chivalry is not dead in more ways than one...I'm still confused as to why in a country that is a majority BLACK, some pigment-challenged individuals still feel comfortable enough, or the need to insert themselves unnecessarily into conversations in which their opinions and CORRECTIONS were not asked for, especially on issues of black identity and history. Perhaps their now cornrowed and/or braided hair (+ extensions) and the introductory West African dance class they signed up for has enabled them to tap into their African roots and they can now relate to me on issues of ethnicity and culture. Perhaps I'm being too harsh. Perhaps I shouldn't have changed my expectations of American cultural norms while abroad. I do know for sure that this sense of entitlement and white privilege needs to die a faster death.

- Christina B

Asi es La Vida

I'm going to reach inside my knowledge and pull out the things I know for sure
Reach inside and flip the switch that tells me naranja is orange and apple is red or sometimes green like fall. I'm going to rename those things

I know that I know, but don't know how they got there.
Turn off that thing that says no one is lonely in a city this big, that I can't cross the street without feeling like E.T riding around in that stupid metal basket. And I'm convinced that someone forgot the 8th day when God made Iguazu.
There are some things that need relearning.

I've been here for exactly a week now and from day one my mind has been racing with information, impressions, thoughts and feelings about this great city. Everyday thus far has been an experience and while im sure that as the newness of it all departs me, I still feel as though each day here in Cairo offers me more than the last. Yesterday I saw the pyramids at Giza and the Sphinx, which is something that cannot be described in words. Its just the feeling that I had while there...at this place, this ancient wonder that was constructed hundreds and hundreds of years ago. It was so trippy to think about the ppl that labored over these great pieces of architecture, so much sweat and energy are between those bricks. I feel truly greatful and blessed to have been able to experience that. But aside from the touristy aspect of it all, it really hit me that I am here in Cairo, on a completely different continent, attempting(not so well of course) to speak a completely different language, for the next couple of months.
Cairo is seriously a million experiences packaged into one crazy ass city. I find it so amazing that a place that seemingly has so many rules because of the union of state and religion, also lacks strictness and rules where one may assume there would be. Its like a game trying to predict the Egyptian code of conduct, ESPECIALLY DURING RAMADAN. As far as social conduct goes, there is a strict frowning on PDA such as making out and heavy petting or groping. There is also a strict rule against muslims smoking and drinking during the Ramadan month. However, there is this strange interaction between the egyptian males where they show each other a great deal of affection in public, which to me would be PDA even though its same sex and completely platonic. Yet and still you can find couples all over the place in the cutest local date spots spending time with eachother and there seems to be no problem with that.
So there are those rules, but there are absolutely NO driving rules. I actually looked into what the driving test here consists of and not to my surprise I found that its a sinple test of driving around a couple of cones and identifying some street signs...not that there are many street signs around Cairo anyway. I was also told from a reliable source that I too could obtain my liscence here, by just presenting my passport and slipping the officer about 50 egyptian pounds...good to know.
Moving on...bedtime does not exist. Or at least not so far. I have not been back to my dorm before 2 am since I arrived here. Its so easy to lose track of the time because everyone is out socializing at the shisha bars, playing cards and backgammon or just chillin out in the street. I'm wondering if its like this now what is life like when Ramadan is not happening. Stores and certain businesses are open til at least 3 in the morning, which even for a New Yorker seems insane. The middle of downtown Cairo is always buzzing and at any given time you can find hundreds of people milling around, selling goods, or just hanging out. I'm talking about entire families, from little babies to old men just chilling in the middle of the city at 2 in the morning for no reason. Thats just the Cairo way I guess.
This last thing that I've noticed so far came as a pleasant suprise. Obama is BIG HIT here. I think the first two things that I always hear when a local finds out that I am American is either "Yes We Can!!!" or "Obama!!! GREAT!!". Its so great how enthused they are about my president. I guess its pretty cool to see how politics really affect everyone. I have no doubt that had I been here just two years ago people would not be so excited to find out that I am american. I was rocking my Obama t shirt the other day and the security guards completely let me through with out scanning my bag or anything and was just mumbling things and arabic with a broad smile across face and repeating "Obama! Obama!" Classes start tomorrow and I'm pretty excited to see what the classroom dynamic will be like compared to Wes. Its gonna be a dope semester.

Understanding "La Mirada"/Do I have Something on my Face?/On a Bad Day "Why the Hell are you Staring at Me?"

"La Mirada" is something that I am still trying to get accustomed to. The word refers to Argentinians tendency to stare at you for uncomfortably long amounts of time. It happens on the streets, in the shops, in the bars, everywhere. Lately, I have been noticing that elderly people are the best(or worst depending on your perspective) at giving long, shameless, piercing looks. There have actually been a couple times on the colective when I have almost..almost asked someone if they knew me just because it would have been less awkward then standing under their gaze a minute longer. Also it must be addressed, although the subject definitely warrants some further analysis and refelction, there are not too many dark-skinned people in Buenos, Aires. Thanks to the combination of 20 years of living as a black woman in the United States and Wesleyan AFAM department, I am already hyper-aware of how race factors into social interactions, not just here in Argentina, but back in the U.S as well. So I have been working really hard to understand "la mirada" in the context of Buenos, Aires and the different ways I am perceived here or rather how my multiple identities might make "la mirada" feel a whole lot different than intended(or maybe I feel it just as its intended, who know?). This fact confuses me in my daily attempts to decipher what different stares mean. I have begun to try and categorize the stares based on some observations.

1.Standard mirada- standing in line at Farmacity, making your selection at the maxikiosko, window shopping, looking at a menu in a restaurant etc. these are situations in which the standard mirada is most commonly experienced. It often involves the person turning to look at you...nothing too crazy, but it just lasts about 30 sec longer than I am accustomed to. It pretty much feels like the person just forgot to stop looking, like they might have zoned out for a min...but nope they are focused on YOU. Look out for middle-aged women, elderly men and women, business-men, shop workers, these are the people who are most commonly seen giving the standard mirada.

2."I Have X-RAY Vision" Mirada-This type of stare is the favorite and specialty of almost all Argentinian men regardless of age, title, or occupation. This stare is often preceeded or followed closely by one of the following: An air kiss, a smile, a comment "ohh que hermosa", or even in some circumstances if he's in the middle of eating something, the licking of the fingers(by far my least favorite). I have noticed that young boys age 12-15ish have just begun to develop their catcalling/staring skills. The are often a bit shyer, if you are walking on the street they might simply nudge their friend as they stare, or whisper something quietly when you're just a little to far to be able to hear it. Also, by far my craziest mirada of the week. A middle-aged man with a Baby Bjorn attached to his front side and a small infant inside, hand in hand with a woman who appeared to be his partner, slows, turns, smile and wink combo, and a good ole' "hola." What do I do with that?

3.Mirada/"I'm thinking about Mugging you"-This is the stare I wish I could decipher better, although at times it is hard to figure out if its simply the harmless, undressing you with my mind" or something far scarier. At this point in time, I'm feeling quite defensive at all times, like my karate fists are poised at all times, finger on the trigger of my pepper spray at night, just READY for anything and this ninja-like alertness makes me suspicious of everyone. But I have been trying to use some other context clues. Beware of the mirada from, drunks, young men walking alone late at night without headphones, unkempt looking children, people lingering when entering and exiting the subte. Still trying to figure this one out, for now, I apologize if I give you a dirty look/cross the street/run(has happened) from a harmless mirada, but I would rather be rude than sorry!

CAIRO!!!!!!

So as I approach my fourth day in Cairo, it still hasnt really hit me that im here...but at the same time I already have great memories of funny, strange, exciting happenings and im already falling for this city. There's so much to say but the words are evading me because I want to make sure I describe it as accurately as possible. In time this will come to me, but for now...

TOP TEN

10. Witnessing a fight...and then watching the police congratulate the "winner".
9. Schwarmas are sooo yummy
8. Egyptian men are some cuties!
7. Riding a sailboat (felucca) down the Nile at night...beautiful and so calm.
6. Everyday I meet someone new and interesting.
5. The architecture of the campus.
4. I can go to the hookah bar at 11 pm and stay there til whenever.
3. Cairo is truly the city that never sleeps, bump New York
2. There is so much history here.
1. Waking up three days in a row and still being shocked that I'm in cairo.

Chocolate High

So I’ve been in Ghana for exactly 3 weeks, which make my opinions simply that, because in no way have I been here long enough to make any particular judgments BUT being here has proven to be extremely WONDERFUL and extremely COMPLICATED. Wonderful in this sense: EVERYTHING that I’ve seen (thus far) is run by only black people—from the professor who teaches me about the African Diaspora from a W. African perspective, to the fine brothers who I can admire 24/7. It is a BEAUTIFUL & EMPOWERING thing for a person (who loves their blackness) to be able to experience and important for anyone in general. I love it here.

It’s complicated in too many ways to be able to explain but I will try and speak on some things that I’ve noticed. The one disheartening thing that I’ve experienced so far (disheartening but simultaneously encouraging) is that anyone who is not dark enough is considered white. It was explained to me like this. Where you’re from, White is the powerful majority, therefore one drop of anything else (hence the 1 drop rule back home) makes you othered/non-white. Here in Ghana, Black is the rulemaking majority, and one drop of anything else (any lighter ethnicity no matter which) makes you White. It’s a very interesting dynamic and something I’m still trying to adjust to, because someone calling me White at home is a mistake a non-Black person would ever make. Also, WHERE ARE ALL MY NATURAL SISTERS AT?? I haven’t seen one yet!

Despite all of the adjusting, I couldn’t imagine myself in any other place. I’m learning more here than I could possibly describe.

- Christina B.

life on the fast track

• Home
• About
• Pictures
• Videos
• Contact

So I haven't actually reached my study abroad destination yet, but with less than a week to go I'm trying to prepare myself for what the semester will be like. I've decided that I want to try as many new things as possible as well as learn as much as I can about Egyptian culture. Thus I have decided to observe Ramadan, which begins today (8/22). Ramadan is celebrated as the 9th month on the muslim calendar and it is seen as one of the five pillars of Islam. It is also believed that during this month the gates of heaven are open for the entire duration and the gates of hell are closed. During this ninth month, according to Islam, the holy Quran was sent down to earth from heaven. Practicing Muslims observe the month by fasting from sun up to sundown as well as straying from sinful activities, because the fast is supposed to be cleansing one's body, mind and soul. I don't know what all of this will mean to me, as the month progresses especially once I get to Cairo. But here's to me and my first day of Ramadan!

UBA like Cuba...

I started my first week of school and I must say the shit is bananas. There is no central campus here and I am taking classes at two different schools, The University of Buenos Aires aka. La UBA and some classes through my program. First of all this week is "shopping" week were we visit classes see what we like what we dislike etc. and it has been wild. I'm taking the colectivo from one end of the city to the next trying to get to classes on time(although puntuality here means something completamente diferente). Stepping into The university of B.A is cra-cra. The bulidings are old and unkempt, there are people painting on the walls, handing out pamphlets, shouting and chatting passionately. There are pics of Che and Mao on almost every floor and everywhere signs of general student dissatisfaction with...everything. The government, the school, capitalism...todo. It is INCREIBLE! I love it!! UBA is like everything Wesleyan thinks it is minus everything that prevents it from being...authentically radical. Today I shopped an incredible class on the Latin American political system, despite not being able to "get" everything, it was still so interesting. Thus, while it is a little overwhelming to be thrown back into academia after this long vacay, I am lovin it!

House Arrest

Since my little incident on the mean streets of Buenos, Aires, My mother...from thousands of miles away has mandated that I don't go out after sundown. She says "If you were in Baghdad you would have to do the same thing," so in order to appease her and also because I'm still a little nervy about what happened, I have decided to take a couple days off from the B.A nightlife (at least until the weekend, which officially starts on Thurs here...When in Rome). I'm taking this time to reflect on my goals for this trip. I want to experience B.A to the fullest, but I also want to be able to return home with all my parts intact. So I'm trying to figure out how to be safe and still be able to experience life as a Porteno to the fullest. These past couple of days besides going to a couple hours of orientation each day, I have been in the house talking with my family, drinking mate with my host sister and watching telenovelas. Getting my head right. All in all is has been a good hiatus!

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

So being in Buenos, Aires is like being two years old again...I have to relearn everything. How to appear less like a confused American and more like the savvy world traveller I seem to think I am. With my apparent lack of Spanish proficiency buying a pack of gum proves to be difficult. Each time I open my mouth to speak its like trying to read Marquez for the first time...somethin's not making sense. But despite the difficulties I must say I love Buenos, Aires! So after almost two weeks here I have come to a couple conclusions which I consider to be "The Good, the bad, and the ugly" based on 2 weeks of observation and subject to change.

The Good: Despite their reputations for being "chic, ultra-stylish and arrogant" the people of Buenos, Aires are overwhelmingly kind and helpful. The city is filled with people willing to chat with strange lost American girls and not just in hopes of getting me into bed..or at least not always.

The Bad: My dreams of strolling down the Avenida de Corrientes and sipping cafe at a corner bistro have been slightly disrupted by the cold weather(I didnt actually believe they had winter here) and the pollution(Argentinians seem almost oblivious to the environmental movement that has taken hold in so many other place around the world. They seem content to breath dirty air, run the water and liter anything anywhere.
1
The Ugly: Getting mugged at gunpoint week 1, by far the ugliest of uglies but you don't have to warn me twice, it won't happen again